Thursday, 22 May 2008

Mid-week revelry




Faster than a speeding bullet, the past few weeks have flown by. So much so that I truly can't believe we are welcoming in the last week of May. The weather the past few days hasn't helped much either. One would think it was March around these chilly parts.

I was long overdue for one of my Sunday night cooking extravaganzas – so this past weekend scheduled it in. On Saturday I'd done my rounds at the posh supermarket and bought my achingly expensive groceries. I’d even mapped out all the dishes I’d be making. There really wasn’t much to stop me....just the devil's brew. Saturday evening’s festivities had plenty of that and left me (put mildly) less than well prepared for Sunday’s domesticated activities (unless one considers sitting in your jammies lying on the couch until 3 as a “domesticated activity”). Needless to say, the feast creation plan didn’t turn out much. Instead I ended up out with a friend eating an undercooked pizza around 8:30 p.m. Truly pathetic.

Since my Sunday of cooking turned out to be a bust I had two options:

1. Try and freeze my wild salmon and cross my fingers that the dozen or so herbs and vegetables I’d bought would last until next weekend …OR…
2. Suck it up and create a mid-week feast

There really was only one option - there was no way I was risking all of my groceries. As a result it's been a delicious week, complete with:
  1. Fresh Corn, Courgette, and Feta Fritters
  2. Sesame Mirin Soy Salmon
  3. Brown Sugar Brownies with Dried Cranberries and White Chocolate Chips
Fresh Corn, Courgette, and Feta Fritters
(Inspired by Bill Granger’s Bill’s Food – Corn Fritter and Zucchini Fritter recipes)
2 ears of corn – kemels removed
2 small courgettes - grated
¼ cup cilantro (coriander) chopped
¼ cup feta in small pieces
5 green onions diced (just white and pale green parts)
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 eggs
½ cup flour
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup (approx) Olive oil for frying
- Mix all ingredients in a medium sized bowl
- Heat olive oil in a large non-stick frying pans on medium-high heat
- Drop fritter batter by heaping tablespoons and cook for approximately 3-4 minutes on each side

Makes about 14

Sesame Mirin Soy Salmon
(Adapted from Bill Granger’s Bill’s Food – Glazed Salmon recipe)

80 ml (1/3 cup) mirin
80 ml (1/3 cup) soy sauce
1 Tbsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp grated ginger
2 Tsp sugar
2 Tsp fresh lemon juice
2 salmon filets (wild if possible)

Dressing
125 ml (1/2 cup) mirin
62 ml (1/4 cup) soy sauce
2 Tsp sugar

1/8 cup sesame seeds

- Marinate the salmon in the first 6 ingredients for 1-2 hours
- To make dressing, bring 3 ingredients to a boil in a small saucepan, reduce heat, and let it thicken – about 12-15 minutes. Set aside
- Heat the grill in your oven to about 275 Celsius
- Remove the salmon from the marinade and place it under the grill in a non-stick pan for about 10 minutes. Keep a close eye on it!
- Serve the salmon by pouring the marinade over and sprinkling with sesame seeds

Brown Sugar Brownies with Dried Cranberries and White Chocolate Chips
(Another old-time family favourite…the original version skips the white chocolate and cranberries and uses semi-sweet chocolate chips instead).

½ cup butter
2 cups brown sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups flour
2 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 tsp vanilla
½ cup white chocolate chips
½ cup dried cranberries

- Preheat oven to 350 F° (176 C°)
- Cream the butter and sugar
- Add eggs, flour, baking powder, salt and vanilla
- Fold in dried cranberries and white chocolate chips
- Bake in an 8 inch square pan (or 7 by 11) for about 30 minutes until tester inserted in the middle of brownies comes out clean

Thursday, 15 May 2008

The Adventures of Scrappy and Pickle




Once upon a time in a land brimming with Miami Beach outfits and a public transport system that seethed and heaved like an overheated German Shepherd, you could find two bumbling superheroes, Scrappy and her side-kick Pickle. Scrappy and Pickle had recently been separated as Pickle had been off fighting her nemesis Dissertation Man. Dissertation Man was currently in hiding and while Pickle had plans to fight him off for good, used the brief sojourn to board her invisible plane (yes, just like Wonder Woman’s!) and pay her old crime-fighting comrade a visit.

Scrappy considered herself somewhat of the fashionable sort fighting bad outfits with a roll of her eyes or a look of confusion. Pickle had always been the perfect crime-fighting sidekick, doing her utmost to keep Scrappy out of trouble and away from offensive outfits and minicab drivers who tried to steal lovely parcels, from let’s say…Fortnum and Mason. When not saving the world from these evil-doers, Scrappy and Pickle could be found at a number of different eateries, ensuring that they stocked up on all the proper food and drink a super hero might need.

The reunion started off with wine near St. Paul’s Cathedral, fresh fruity tutti cocktails at the Charlotte Street Hotel, and ace tapas at The Salt Yard on Goodge Street.

Highlights from the Salt Yard:
- Marinated Beetroot with Goats Cheese, Pinenuts and Vinaigrette
- Courgette Flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro cheese and drizzled with honey
- Cornish Crab and Chilli Croquetas
- Roasted Chorizo with Moscatel Vinegar

The next day found Scrappy and Pickle once again out and about looking to right the wrongs of meanie minicab drivers. It took the better part of the day to do, in the meanwhile Scrappy and Pickle filled up on some much needed sustenance.

Gordon Ramsey's The Narrow:
This Thameside pub near Limehouse was brimming with sunshine and positive energy (and outfits). After a bit of discussion around what they should share, Pickle and Scrappy decided to skip going halvsies and each ordered the hake and chips with marrow fat peas. This was one of Scrappy and Pickle’s better decisions that day. The coating of the fish was crispier and leaps and bounds more palatable than Scrappy’s aqua net mall bangs from 1988. The fish was moist, the chips not too chunky, and the marrow fat peas were delicious enough to make even the most finicky veggie-hating child ask for seconds.

Nothing could stop Scrappy and Pickle now…except perhaps for a key lime pie or some patty pan squash stuffed with fresh corn and feta…

Thursday, 8 May 2008

Iceland and the Northern Lights




Apparently the hotdog is one of Iceland’s national foods. How this came to be I’m not entirely sure, but last weekend’s visit to Reykjavik had me consuming 2 within a 24 hour period. Honestly, this was more than my total hotdog consumption in the past 12 months.

Furthermore, I’m not sure why I insist on travelling to the most expensive cities in Europe ($9-$10 beer as a benchmark) but I can only imagine that the lowly hotdog has been raised to its glorious national iconic status because at 230-250 króna (£1.60) it’s the most affordable meal out. And, calling a spade a spade here…they’re pretty tasty too.

The main difference with the Icelandic hotdog is that the casing seemed to be just a teensy bit thicker than normal. So while normally I’d just bite and eat away, it took some extra oomph on the molars to break through to the mystery meat within. A nice addition to the standard optional accoutrements was the option of fresh and/or fried onions. Feeling quite strongly that eating raw onions is worse than being stuck in an elevator with Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” being played on repeat, I opted for the fried onions. Like the hotdog, they were not of home-made ilk. Instead, they were the miniature ones that come in a tin can. I suppose one must give Iceland credit for being consistent in the hot dog’s artificialness. Regardless, the fried onions, adhering to the hotdog via a glue stick of ketchup were delicious. Would I make a habit of hunting these Icelandic dogs down now that I’m back in London? Let’s say that they were on sale at the airport…but Dana decided to pass.

The other gastronomic adventures of note were Viking beer and the 3-course lobster tasting menu at Laekjarbrekka.

Like the Virgin Mary who was discovered on a piece of French toast (and then quickly sold on ebay for $28,000), my first pint of Viking beer had a eerily scary picture in the foam on top. Depending on the angle, it was a map of Iceland. I thought perhaps this was because Viking beer is made with “pure Icelandic water” (the poopy sulphur smell having been removed) but looking around the table no one else seemed to having anything even remotely similar. The beer is a golden pilsner, and while I typically prefer my brewskies a bit darker, it was the perfect pint.

The restaurant Laekjarbrekka is situated in one of the oldest buildings in Reykjavik. With a laminated, free-standing sign outside their front door to woo in passing tourists, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. That said, what welcomed us inside was the quaintest little dining room, complete with an elderly Icelandic piano player who kept us entertained with a wide variety of show tunes.

The lobster in Iceland is quite different from traditional New England lobster. They're much smaller (think langoustines) due to the colder waters. There was a moment of panic when I was signing up for the lobstermenu as I don’t generally trust little lobsters. However, everything worked really well becaused they highlighted the tender meat of the lobster tail and for the most part didn’t serve it in its shell.
On the menu:

Lobster soup with crème and cognac – The others loved this soup. For me it was the biggest disappointment of the meal, but this is partly due to the fact that I tend to avoid crème based soups like oncoming traffic in a game of Frogger.

Grilled lobster tails in garlic-butter, tempura fried lobster, and lobster Wellington with cap and portabella mushrooms – I found all three of these dishes outstanding. A few of the others felt the tempura lobster was reminiscent of what one might get at a fish and chip shop. I’d agree in the context of the fried battering, but disagreed because the lobster meat was outstanding. If I could get it at my local fish and chip shop on a regular basis I’d be a much fuller-figured lady.

Desert was simple and straightforward, served inside a toffee almond “basket” was fresh fruit salad and an assortment of ice creams and sorbets. Because I’m a sucker for homemade ice creams (the mass produced Ben & Jerry’s stuff not being my thing), the desert had me classily licking my plate. Literally. Licking my plate. Ok, with my fingers if I'm honest, but is this really any better? The only thing better would have had to be seeing the Northern Lights, completely randomly while being locked out of our apartment our first night. Smooth operators, ladies. ;-)

Thursday, 17 April 2008

Marathon Meals

As I’ve said on many an occasion to my sporty friends, my sport of choice is cake-baking. As such, when it came time for this past Sunday’s London Marathon I lent my support in the only way I knew how, by cooking. FM was running and for the past 6 months I’d been privy to hearing about her somewhat busted knee (which was fixed in time to run) and been woken up by the front door opening and closing as she headed out on her many early morning runs. I must say it was admirable. I’d snuggle deeper into my covers, role over and proceed to sleep for at least another hour before getting up for work.

I wasn’t entirely sure what a good post-marathon meal would be but I decided something with protein and carbohydrates would do quite well. Oh, and truffle oil. Every good marathon runner needs a bit of truffle at the end of a gruelling 26.2 miles.

Finished with triple chocolate cookies, it might not have been the meal a nutritionist would have prescribed, but it still managed to do the trick.

Herbed Chicken and Shitake Mushroom, Leeks, and Truffle Risotto

In typical fashion I’ve taken a recipe I’ve found and changed it to my specifications. As it read, it seemed much too heavy for a post-marathon runner, so off I went tweak, tweaking away.

In a nutshell, incorporate the following into the recipe hyperlinked above.
1. Replace the cream with semi-skim milk
2. Replace the butter with olive oil (if butter is a necessity, finish the risotto at the end with a bit – it’s not necessary with the mushrooms)
3. If you are not using freshly shaved truffles, triple the amount of truffle oil you use and finish the dish at the end with a little swirl on top
4. I used chicken stock instead of vegetable stock, just because it’s what I had available (and I was cooking chicken to serve with the risotto anyway)
5. Pass on the “chopped fresh parsley”. Seriously, it’s not going to add anything but a bit of greenery (of which I just served dinner with a green salad instead)

Herbed Chicken -This might be the easiest recipe ever…and it was FM's favourite part of the meal.

1. In a small bowl mix together bread crumbs (I used Japanese panko crumbs), chopped garlic, and fresh/dried herbs (I used thyme and oregano)
2. Take skinless/boneless chicken breast and coat with a thin layer of olive oil (I had a little bit of hummus left over so I used this as well). Once coated, dip in crumb mixture and cover chicken. Repeat if necessary.
3. Bake in an oven at 350° F or 175° C until cooked through – about 35 minutes
4. Serve with risotto

Triple Chocolate Cookies

I definitely had something in mind when I was making these cookies but because I couldn’t seem to find any of the ingredients I wanted or needed they ended up taking on a life of their own. Somewhat cake/brownie like instead – they still managed to be moist and quite flavourful. I brought the leftovers to my eager team at work. When I opened the container the smell that wafted out was so delicious and chocolaty that I was told to immediately close the lid or I should expect them to all be gone in the next few minutes.

I’ll definitely make these again – they were more popular than I would have imagined when I first took them out of the oven.


8-10 ounces (225-285 grams) semisweet chocolate
1/2 cup flour
4 tablespoons cocoa (I used Cadbury)
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
3 eggs
2 tsps vanilla extract
8 oz (225 grams) white chocolate broken into chunks
½ cup milk chocolate chips

- Preheat oven to 350°F / 175°C.
- Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper
- Melt semisweet chocolate, set aside to cool
- Mix flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt
- With electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in another medium bowl until well combined
- Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition
- Continue to beat until 3-4 minutes more until light in colour
- Add melted chocolate and vanilla and beat together
- Fold in flour mixture, white chocolate chunks and chocolate chips
- Place a tablespoon full of batter onto cookie sheets, space at least 1 inch from each other
- Bake cookies, 1 tray at a time, for about 10-12 minutes per tray
- Cool cookies

Sunday, 13 April 2008

Dill up in my Grill






My recent trip to Moscow left a few distinct impressions on me.

The city is quite beautiful but most importantly filled with terrific food. The beauty however, is more of the "rough around the edges" variety, and hid behind a fair bit of grit and grime. Basically, like the copious amounts of potatoes they use in their food, the city could do with a good scrubbing.

In Moscow, the people aren’t particularly friendly at first, but the vodka makes up for it in the end. More shocking than the burning sensation of home-made vodka scorching my throat was just how expensive everything was. Never-ever did I think London would be a pauper cousin to another metropolis. Low and behold – here was Moscow, strutting her stuff and waving her big chops around. They say ignorance was bliss, and when I wasn’t converting my purchases I was AOK. However, it wasn’t until KC and I were walking down the street with a green tea and cappuccino in hand that the internal calculator turned on. I’m hoping our drinks were brewed in gold and dusted with magical powers because I realised that the two drinks had just cost us $26.00. And no, my nose is not growing.

Traveling to Moscow was the first time I’d really had an opportunity to eat Russian and Ukrainian food in excess. It was also the first time I was as close as I’d ever come to some of the traditional foods I’d grown up with. I’d always just thought of them as family recipes - typical “Jewish” foods – but I realised they were less about being “Jewish” (as the pork in a few dishes should have hinted at) and more eastern European – Russian influenced. I mentioned to a few people that I loved the food in Moscow and more than a fair few were quite surprised. Maybe it’s the ¼ Ukrainian in me that made it come out – but KC loved it too. And her heritage is of a random variety of Western European countries. And she's from Texas to boot - so I doubt it.

Still, the connection was made for a few reasons:

Dill - My mother, grandmother before her, and now me has had a love affair with dill all of our lives. It makes its way into many home-made soups and salads that have been made countless times over the years.

Potatoes – The body is approximately 60% water, I think the rest of mine is made up of mashed potatoes. I’m addicted to them and must eat them in some capacity nearly every day. These little diamonds make their way into nearly all old-school family recipes in some way, shape, or form. Even when you don’t expect potato (e.g. Meat Knishes) it’s hidden in there unexpectedly (in the case of the said Knishes, in the dough).

Vodka – I love it. My mom loves it. My grandmother, bless her, was known to take a sip or two on occasion.

Over my 4 days in Moscow I had two favourite foodie delights. The first was the Russian tradition of chasing vodka shots with dill pickles. Never in my life have I found a more perfect match. People talk about meeting their perfect match, their “soul mate” – I think it’s really all about meeting your “dill pickle.” On so many different levels that just sounds wrong - I know, but honestly – it’s just so right.

My second favourite is the infamous beetroot soup, borscht. When I was younger borscht didn’t materialise too often because my father is a Borscht hater. However, my mom would still make it for herself on occasion. In my youthful ignorance the only bright-pink items I’d let near me were hair scrunchies, bonnie-bell watermelon lip gloss, or my lee press on nails in “bubblegum.” Borscht was totally bogus, man.

Living in London one can get some fancy delancy beetroot based soups, but funnily enough it’s never actually called Borscht (case in point my refrigerator currently contains a lovely container of “Duchy Originals Organic Fresh Beetroot Soup with Dill”) and hence I was still living in the dark thinking I was a borscht hater. This trip to Moscow showed me the light. I, Dana E. B. am the biggest borscht-lover ever. The sweetness of the beets, mixed with the smokiness of a bit of pork, and a big ol’ dollop of sour cream is...well…as Belinda Carlisle once sang, “heaven is a place on earth.” For me, it resides in a big old bowl of Borscht soup.

Wednesday, 26 March 2008

Two little piggies go to market





I've always been fascinated by sibling relationships. Love them or hate them, our siblings form a distinct part of who we are. Being the youngest of four, the only-child phenomenon has always amazed me. What would it be like to always be the centre of attention and favorite? A question my 2 brothers and sister often ask me (winkwink).

While spending my formative years in a state of “I’m telling mom,” MCB’s recent visit reminded me that even though the distances may be great (3 continents), visits less frequent than trips to the dentist, and life’s paths as different as the intelligence levels of Paris Hilton and Albert Einstein, our siblings are part and parcel of who we are.

Now, the reality of this is that what you share with one sibling might be different from the others. In the case of MCB, straight away I was reminded of the passion we both have for all things food-related. Next to our family and friends it’s probably what we love most. This was completely encapsulated in his 35 year-old face when taking in Borough Market for the first time. Recognizing the look on his face as one I’ve had many times before, the sheer joy and aplomb at seeing London’s oldest food market was completely telling. I knew what I was seeing – pure delight and excitement and being surrounded by such gastronomic bliss.

Even though MCB’s stay was a mere 60 hours we managed to eat and drink our way through most of London. Some highlights:

1. Al Hamra, my favorite Lebanese restaurant in Shepherd’s Market. WARNING: The garlic will stay with you for at least 36 hours. Honest.


2. A slightly drunken whistle stop tour of Chinatown which involved Peking duck, soft shell crab and a bizarre dish consisting of pork and eel (this last one, not so much folks).


3. Neal’s Yard Dairy:


  • Dana: (swooning): “Shall we get a little bit of cheese to snack on before dinner.”

  • MCB: “Sure, how about a little bit of 3 different kinds”.

  • Dana: (as the cheesemonger is slicing away): “Oh, no. Too much! Less, please."

  • MCB: “Oh, it's fine. Let's get it all. I’ll eat it – don’t worry.”

For the record, MCB ate a teensy nibble of the cheese and left me (the cheese lover who’s trying to give it up) a fridge full of stinky and sticky glorious cheese. Somehow even as grown-ups he's managed to tease me unfairly. So what if now the taunts are with cheese?

4. Tamarind in Mayfair (rated 26 for food in Zagat) was our “big meal out.” It’s meant to be an outstanding upscale Indian restaurant. While our food was good, MCB and I decided that, quite simply, Indian’s not meant to be upscale. We would've been just as happy with a dirty curry that cost ¼ the price. It also didn’t help that neither one of us was particularly hungry from all the food we'd eaten at Borough Market earlier that day.

Truth? At the point we were heading to dinner I was still so full all I really wanted to do was stay in and not eat for another 2 days. Alas, when big brother is paying one can always find room for just a wee bit more...

Sunday, 16 March 2008

Nuts for Islington (and pecans) PART 2

Two thumbs up, a high-five, and a gold star go to MCB, who made a celebrity whistle-stop tour to London this weekend. He gets a massive shout out for the gargantuan amount of pecans he brought me from the States. It’s true; they really do make things bigger in the States. I think just one of those bags of pecans makes up the entire pecan community in supermarkets in North London.