Sunday, 13 April 2008

Dill up in my Grill






My recent trip to Moscow left a few distinct impressions on me.

The city is quite beautiful but most importantly filled with terrific food. The beauty however, is more of the "rough around the edges" variety, and hid behind a fair bit of grit and grime. Basically, like the copious amounts of potatoes they use in their food, the city could do with a good scrubbing.

In Moscow, the people aren’t particularly friendly at first, but the vodka makes up for it in the end. More shocking than the burning sensation of home-made vodka scorching my throat was just how expensive everything was. Never-ever did I think London would be a pauper cousin to another metropolis. Low and behold – here was Moscow, strutting her stuff and waving her big chops around. They say ignorance was bliss, and when I wasn’t converting my purchases I was AOK. However, it wasn’t until KC and I were walking down the street with a green tea and cappuccino in hand that the internal calculator turned on. I’m hoping our drinks were brewed in gold and dusted with magical powers because I realised that the two drinks had just cost us $26.00. And no, my nose is not growing.

Traveling to Moscow was the first time I’d really had an opportunity to eat Russian and Ukrainian food in excess. It was also the first time I was as close as I’d ever come to some of the traditional foods I’d grown up with. I’d always just thought of them as family recipes - typical “Jewish” foods – but I realised they were less about being “Jewish” (as the pork in a few dishes should have hinted at) and more eastern European – Russian influenced. I mentioned to a few people that I loved the food in Moscow and more than a fair few were quite surprised. Maybe it’s the ¼ Ukrainian in me that made it come out – but KC loved it too. And her heritage is of a random variety of Western European countries. And she's from Texas to boot - so I doubt it.

Still, the connection was made for a few reasons:

Dill - My mother, grandmother before her, and now me has had a love affair with dill all of our lives. It makes its way into many home-made soups and salads that have been made countless times over the years.

Potatoes – The body is approximately 60% water, I think the rest of mine is made up of mashed potatoes. I’m addicted to them and must eat them in some capacity nearly every day. These little diamonds make their way into nearly all old-school family recipes in some way, shape, or form. Even when you don’t expect potato (e.g. Meat Knishes) it’s hidden in there unexpectedly (in the case of the said Knishes, in the dough).

Vodka – I love it. My mom loves it. My grandmother, bless her, was known to take a sip or two on occasion.

Over my 4 days in Moscow I had two favourite foodie delights. The first was the Russian tradition of chasing vodka shots with dill pickles. Never in my life have I found a more perfect match. People talk about meeting their perfect match, their “soul mate” – I think it’s really all about meeting your “dill pickle.” On so many different levels that just sounds wrong - I know, but honestly – it’s just so right.

My second favourite is the infamous beetroot soup, borscht. When I was younger borscht didn’t materialise too often because my father is a Borscht hater. However, my mom would still make it for herself on occasion. In my youthful ignorance the only bright-pink items I’d let near me were hair scrunchies, bonnie-bell watermelon lip gloss, or my lee press on nails in “bubblegum.” Borscht was totally bogus, man.

Living in London one can get some fancy delancy beetroot based soups, but funnily enough it’s never actually called Borscht (case in point my refrigerator currently contains a lovely container of “Duchy Originals Organic Fresh Beetroot Soup with Dill”) and hence I was still living in the dark thinking I was a borscht hater. This trip to Moscow showed me the light. I, Dana E. B. am the biggest borscht-lover ever. The sweetness of the beets, mixed with the smokiness of a bit of pork, and a big ol’ dollop of sour cream is...well…as Belinda Carlisle once sang, “heaven is a place on earth.” For me, it resides in a big old bowl of Borscht soup.

Wednesday, 26 March 2008

Two little piggies go to market





I've always been fascinated by sibling relationships. Love them or hate them, our siblings form a distinct part of who we are. Being the youngest of four, the only-child phenomenon has always amazed me. What would it be like to always be the centre of attention and favorite? A question my 2 brothers and sister often ask me (winkwink).

While spending my formative years in a state of “I’m telling mom,” MCB’s recent visit reminded me that even though the distances may be great (3 continents), visits less frequent than trips to the dentist, and life’s paths as different as the intelligence levels of Paris Hilton and Albert Einstein, our siblings are part and parcel of who we are.

Now, the reality of this is that what you share with one sibling might be different from the others. In the case of MCB, straight away I was reminded of the passion we both have for all things food-related. Next to our family and friends it’s probably what we love most. This was completely encapsulated in his 35 year-old face when taking in Borough Market for the first time. Recognizing the look on his face as one I’ve had many times before, the sheer joy and aplomb at seeing London’s oldest food market was completely telling. I knew what I was seeing – pure delight and excitement and being surrounded by such gastronomic bliss.

Even though MCB’s stay was a mere 60 hours we managed to eat and drink our way through most of London. Some highlights:

1. Al Hamra, my favorite Lebanese restaurant in Shepherd’s Market. WARNING: The garlic will stay with you for at least 36 hours. Honest.


2. A slightly drunken whistle stop tour of Chinatown which involved Peking duck, soft shell crab and a bizarre dish consisting of pork and eel (this last one, not so much folks).


3. Neal’s Yard Dairy:


  • Dana: (swooning): “Shall we get a little bit of cheese to snack on before dinner.”

  • MCB: “Sure, how about a little bit of 3 different kinds”.

  • Dana: (as the cheesemonger is slicing away): “Oh, no. Too much! Less, please."

  • MCB: “Oh, it's fine. Let's get it all. I’ll eat it – don’t worry.”

For the record, MCB ate a teensy nibble of the cheese and left me (the cheese lover who’s trying to give it up) a fridge full of stinky and sticky glorious cheese. Somehow even as grown-ups he's managed to tease me unfairly. So what if now the taunts are with cheese?

4. Tamarind in Mayfair (rated 26 for food in Zagat) was our “big meal out.” It’s meant to be an outstanding upscale Indian restaurant. While our food was good, MCB and I decided that, quite simply, Indian’s not meant to be upscale. We would've been just as happy with a dirty curry that cost ¼ the price. It also didn’t help that neither one of us was particularly hungry from all the food we'd eaten at Borough Market earlier that day.

Truth? At the point we were heading to dinner I was still so full all I really wanted to do was stay in and not eat for another 2 days. Alas, when big brother is paying one can always find room for just a wee bit more...

Sunday, 16 March 2008

Nuts for Islington (and pecans) PART 2

Two thumbs up, a high-five, and a gold star go to MCB, who made a celebrity whistle-stop tour to London this weekend. He gets a massive shout out for the gargantuan amount of pecans he brought me from the States. It’s true; they really do make things bigger in the States. I think just one of those bags of pecans makes up the entire pecan community in supermarkets in North London.

Monday, 10 March 2008

Nuts for Islington (and pecans) PART 1






Last Sunday was just another example of why I am head over heels for North London. I know there's a very strong argument for the wide variety of other neighborhoods in the city. If I’d randomly ended up living in one of these places instead, like I did here - it would probably be the fixation of my appreciation too.

In the morning I headed out into the sunshine for Islington’s farmer’s market. In typical London form it started raining 10 minutes into my walk. Of course I was wearing sunnies and not thought to bring an umbrella. C'est la vie, I suppose.

The market is peanut-sized and open from 10-2 on Sundays. Whilst itsybitsy, it really has everything you need for the makings of the utmost Sunday supper. Combine that with the most quintessential and lovely British farmers and bakers who are passionate about the work they do and the food they sell, I spent nearly 2 hours tasting and chatting away about the current state of farming affairs (not so good) and Londoners love of farmer’s markets (quite good). This was all while hunched under their 2 inches of awning that covered their wares.

One thing (not surprisingly) I couldn’t get at the farmer’s market were pecans, which I needed for my Hidden Treasures (recipe below). Still, I certainly thought I’d find them at my local Tesco or Morrison’s. Nope. I had to go to three supermarkets to find pecans. Now, for anyone who reads this blog on a regular basis (hi mom) you’ll know I’ve a slight obsession with pecans in my baked goods. Cashews and pine nuts are great for savory, but when it comes to sweet, if a nut is waiting in the wings, I want to see that pecan centre stage. Apparently the walnut is the prima ballerina in the baking aisle of the supermarkets here in the UK. I don’t dislike the walnut, but have never really understood the big fuss.

Note: I’d just like to add that after all of this (chatting with the farmers and scavenger hunting for pecans), the rain did stop and the sun came back out...

...about 10 minutes after returning home. I was happy as a lark, but soaked and looking like a drowned rat.

For dinner that night I made a luscious roast chicken with some Maris Piper potatoes and purple sprouting broccoli, all purchased at the farmer’s market. The potatoes were of rock-star quality.

Roasted Maris Piper potatoes with garlic, truffle oil, and parmesan
1. Par-boil 4-5 small potatoes per person, drain water
2. Cut potatoes into small pieces and toss them with equal parts olive oil and truffle oil (I was making for 3 so used about 1 tbsp of each)
3. Finely chop 4 cloves of garlic (the more the merrier) and add to potatoes with ½ tsp sea salt
4. Cook potatoes in a pan under the roast chicken (so juices drips on top)
5. Stir frequently and cook until potatoes are of your crisp-level preference (even being par-broiled I had mine in the oven for nearly 1 ½ hours to get them perfectly browned)

Hidden Treasures
These cookies are very similar to a Mexican tea cookie. In fact, since I couldn't hunt down my grandmother's recipe I followed the one below from epicurious.com.

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/105939

The main difference which provides the name "Hidden Treasure" is that inside the cookie you'll find a hidden luscious piece of chocolate. Historically this chocolate should be a Hershey's Kiss. Since these can't be found in the UK, I ended up using some Belgian praline chocolates that a friend had given me as a gift instead. Really, any chocolate will do. Next time, might give the cookies a go with some Buttons.

Sunday, 2 March 2008

One word versus two


Coffeecake.
Coffee + Cake.

Last night I met LM for a special early screening of a popular chick flick that’s coming out in a few weeks time. In order to have a bit of time for the goss, we decided to meet earlier to catch up over some coffee and maybe cake. I’d told her I’d do one better…I would make some homemade coffeecake and bring it along.

This brings me to an interesting dichotomy (yet another) between food in the UK vs. food in the US. This time the difference is simple, Coffeecake versus Coffee + Cake.

In the UK, apparently only Coffee + Cake exists. Rummaging around the BBC food website I found no entries for Coffeecake and 5 for Coffee + Cake. The thing is, all of these recipes involved both cake and coffee in some way. Makes sense I guess, but for people who are familiar with Coffeecake (a lovely light cake often prepared with cinnamon and nuts but rarely with actual coffee as an ingredient), it was a complete 180 from what I'd been searching for (e.g. 10-minute cappuccino trifles was 1 of the 5 recipes that appeared).

Bringing the leftover cake into work today, I had this confirmed by at least half a dozen friends. Every single time someone asked what kind of cake it was I had to go into this drawn-out schpiel about how technically it was called Coffeecake, but please folks - don't expect a coffee taste...bladeeblahblah. Over and over again.

So, what I've learned is that Coffeecake, as it lives and breathes in the US doesn’t have an England stamp in it's passport. However, I'm proud to say that I'm educating the British public. There are now at least 6 British friends who can tell the 1 to 2 word difference.

Sour Cream and Apricot Coffee Cake (adapted from the Silver Palate Cookbook)

2 sticks butter (225 grams)

2¾ granulated sugar

2 beaten eggs

2 cups flour

1 tbs baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1 cup sour cream

11/2 tsps vanilla extract

11/2 cups chopped pecans

2 tbs cinnamon

¾ cup apricot preserves


1. Preheat oven to 350 F (175 C)

2. Grease a bundt or cake pan and dust with flour

3. Cream butter and 2 cups sugar. Add eggs and then sour cream and vanilla.

4. Sift flour, baking powder, and salt. Add to butter mixture.

5. In a separate bowl, combine remaining sugar, nuts, and cinnamon.

6. Pour half of batter into pan. Drop half of apricot preserves in spoonfuls around pan. Sprinkle half of sugar and pecan mixture on top.

7. Add remaining batter, remaining jam, and remaining sugar and nuts.

8. Place in middle of oven and bake for 60-70 minutes (check after 55). Tester should come out clean when inserted into middle.





Sunday, 17 February 2008

Smooth landing





Having been in a holding pattern for the past few weeks due to both foreseeable and unforeseeable work-related reasons, I was able to come in for a smooth landing over the weekend. Friends forgave me for being completely MIA over the past month, the sun shone brightly and briskly over my London streets, I partook in some scrummy pink prosecco and pints of beer, caught up on my yoga, and was able to do some hard-core cooking.

I’d been on the fence about making either some gourmet mac 'n cheese or just some old-school spaghetti and meat sauce. Digging around my fridge I discovered I had nearly all the ingredients for both. Thinking that if I made one of them next week, some ingredients would protest at their misuse (or lack thereof) I squashed the imminent revolt and just made both.

So what if I currently have enough food in my kitchen to easily serve 15 people? That’s what my extraordinarily large freezer (for London) is for. Plus, ever the planner – having JB over for dinner tomorrow night and MBG over from NYC later in the week – I knew I needed to keep my friends well fed.

Now the chocolate toffee bars I made as a last minute addition are a different story. Why did I make them? I suppose the answer to that question is the very scientific 3rd grade response of, “well, why not?”

A side note about these brownies...
Growing up there was never a baked good far away and they often manifested themselves in a circular rotation. Chocolate brownies (the world famous ones mentioned in a previous entry), brown sugar brownies, dream bars, and toffee squares were the ones on repeat mode. This toffee square recipe comes from an old-school land-o-lakes butter recipe book that I think was purchased at Stop and Shop in the 80’s. They are still one of my all-time favourites.

I suppose having two older brothers scarf most of them up before I could even really get to them meant they didn’t do too much damage to my growth (unless you count the ridiculous amount of times I had to go to the dentist). I'll just chock that up to genetics.

Gourmet Mac and CheeseAdapted from Foster’s Market Cookbook
Note: This is one of my all-time favourite cookbooks. Every recipe I've ever made from it has been absolutely delicious (and ridiculously fattening). There is a scientific correlation here.

1 lb (450 grams) orechiette, ziti or penne pasta (I used penne)
1 cup sour cream (I used crème fraiche)
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp butter
1 diced onion
1/3 cup flour
3 cups milk (I used semi-skim)
1 ½ cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
½ cup parmesan cheese
85 grams (3 oz) cream cheese (I used reduced fat)
1 large bag spinach
½ cup sun dried tomatoes
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 chicken breasts
Salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350 F or 176 C
2. Grease a 9 x 13 pan
3. Bake chicken on separate tray for 10 minutes until nearly cooked through, cut into pieces and set aside
4. While chicken is cooking, cook pasta and then toss with sour cream
5. Heat oil and butter in a large pot. Sauté onion for 2-4 minutes until translucent
6. Stir flour into onion, stirring constantly for approximately 3 minutes or until flour is brown
7. Slowly whisk milk and cook, stirring until it boils and thickens (about 5 mins)
8. Remove from heat and add cheddar, parmesan, cream cheese, spinach, sun dried tomatoes, lemon juice and chicken. Stir until spinach wilts
9. Add to pasta and sour cream with some salt and pepper to taste
10. Bake in dish (uncovered) for 40-45 minutes


Toffee Squares
http://www.landolakes.com/mealIdeas/ViewRecipe.cfm?RecipeID=4368D

This is one of those rare recipes that I don’t switch up at all. Just be careful when making the toffee. One trick is to place a cold glass of water next to you. When you think it might be done use a fork and drop a tiny bit of the toffee into the cold water. If it solidifies into a ball it means it’s done. I've no idea when I was taught this, but for some strange reason it works.

Saturday, 9 February 2008

Super Bowl Monday



Ex-Pat Pat’s Fan means Super Bowl Monday instead of Super Bowl Sunday

The fact of the matter is that if the New England Patriots hadn’t been playing in the Super Bowl then I probably wouldn’t have pushed ahead with this crazy idea of finding a friend to host a get-together which started at 11 p.m. As devastating, gut-wrenching and heart being ripped out (and stomped and spit on) the night turned out to be, one thing that managed a complete pass was my sweet and sticky wings.

The journey of making these wings really showcased some fundamental differences between what's "typical" and "normal" in grocery stores here versus in the US.

From previous experience of making wings in the States, the typical thing to do is buy a hefty bag of chicken wings (usually of the 5 lb bag variety) to start your recipe off right. I didn’t really expect to find this in my local supermarket, but at least I'd find the not unusual 8-10 piece package.


So off I go, sporting my Boston Red Sox hat to start getting me excited for some good American sports watching. When I arrive at the chicken section, low and behold chicken wings only come in the organic variety (which ok, probably is a good thing and worth the extra money) but they also only come 4 per package. 4 dinkily winkily organic chicken wings per package. Utterly ridiculous.

Since there were only 2 packages on the shelf I had to ask for more. “How many more?” the guy asked. “Um, maybe 8 in total, so 6 more.” He said "Oh wow, you must be hungry!" Hardy har har buddy. Was it so unbelievably strange to think people might bring chicken wings to a party? Apparently so since the only package they were offering catered to a yuppie organic-loving party of 1.

Anyway, I didn't really care. I took my 8 packages of chicken wings to the til, alongside my organic yogurt, granola, and beet greens and paid.

These wings were gone (to quote Chuck Woolery) "in 2 and 2".


NOTE: The second image above would be displaying the fine attempt by some friends to make nachos. No, that Doritos bag did not randomly end up in the photo - they are the foundation for the delightful dish. Brits really need to work on their Mexican food.

Sweet and Sticky Chicken Wings
5-8 lbs chicken wings
1 cup fresh lime juice
1 cup apricot preserves
3/4 cup soy sauce
2/3 cup sugar
2 tbl chopped ginger
5 scallions sliced thinly
4 garlic cloves
1/2 cup sesame seeds


2 large roasting pans


Place chicken wings in a large plastic container or ziploc bag.
Purée all ingredients except sesame seeds and pour mixture over wings.
Marinate overnight or for at least 8 hours.
Preheat oven to 425°F.
Divide wings between 2 large pans, in a single layer.
Sprinkle sesame seeds on top of wings.
Bake wings in upper and lower thirds of oven 45 minutes.
Turn wings over, sprinkle sesame seeds again and switch position of pans in oven.
Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour more. Wings should caramelise and almost look burnt.